Lamu, Kenya an Oasis of Calm in Northern Kenya

Last updated: September 2025

Snapshot: Lamu at a Glance

Vibe, who it’s for, ideal stay length

Lamu is UNESCO world heritage site and a favourite destination for tourists, it has a distinct architectural style which is a blend of Arabic, Persian and Indian. It is a historic Swahili island with alleyways, donkeys, and dhow sails.

It’s a popular couples destination it’s a very laid back and chilled spot. There are two main beaches Manda and Shela. Ideal stay is probably a weekend or a week. If you really like a quiet routine then longer.

Safety

Lamu island is generally considered safe. The mainland surrounding has elevated risk due to its proximity to Somalia. Most governments will suggest to fly in and avoid overland travel in Lamu County unless with a tour operator.

Typical monthly budget range

Life in Lamu is pretty affordable. Accommodation on AirBnb in lower seasons come in at around $170/week or $500/month. Meals in restaurants cost from around $3 to $10, Lamu is a pretty low key place.

Your more expensive outing would be a sunset dhow (boat) trip which would cost in the range of $30.

Internet speeds, power reliability

4G from Safaricom, Airtel and Telkom works well in Lamu Town. Expect 5–30 Mbps typical on 4G, as with other areas in Kenya Starlink is also getting popular.

Power cuts do occur, so pick a stay with a generator or make sure you bring a power bank.

Attitudes to nomads and tourists

Warm and welcoming. The town is predominantly Muslim. Dress modestly away from the beach, ask before photos, and learn a few Swahili greetings.

Where Is Lamu & How It’s Laid Out

Lamu is located around 200km north of Malindi which is around 3 hours by car. Alternatively you can fly there from Malindi, Mombasa or Nairobi.

Lamu Old Town – Car-free lanes, mosques, museum, jetty;
Shela Village – Beachfront stays and cafés, 30–40 minutes’ walk or a 10–15 minute boat from town;
Manda Island – Home to Manda (LAU) airport which is accessible by boat, or the quiet beaches on the southern side of the island, also accessible by boat, Takwa Ruins;
Matondoni – A small village on the Traditional dhow-building yards;
Kiunga Marine Reserve / Kiwayu – Remote reefs and mangroves for snorkelling and birdlife;

When to Go

Best weather: January–February and July–October. Short rains in November, long rains roughly April–June. Seas are calmer in the dry seasons.

Festivals often fall in November and around Maulidi (which mark the birth of the Prophet Mohamed). There are Dhow race in 1st January 2025 and a yoga festival 7th-10th November 2025 and a lively cultural festival 28th-30th November 2025.

Work Setup

Internet & SIMs (mobile data, hotspots, Starlink options)

Best mobile network: Safaricom generally strongest and Airtel is an alright alternative;
Starlink: Available in Kenya with roaming and residential packages; good fallback for villas;
mPesa: You can register M-PESA with a passport; do this at a Safaricom shop;

Power cuts & backups (what to expect)

Grid is generally reliable, but short outages and voltage dips are not uncommon.

Kenya has had nationwide blackouts and Lamu’s festivals have seen local outages. Book places with generator / solar plus if you need continuous power.

As with a lot of places in Africa we always recommend taking a good power bank with you.

Best Cafés & Coworking for Getting Stuff Done

There are no formal coworking spaces but there are a few places you can go if you’re a bit stuck in a power outage. Around Shela Whisper Coffee Shop while small has some seating, the Peponi Hotel has a nice terrace, reliable Wi-Fi and you can ask for a quiet table. Kijani Hotel.

Where to Stay (Nomad-Friendly)

Airbnb has a pretty good selection of options if you’re looking for hotels there are a few options below.

Mid-range

Wiyoni Royals Lamu – Friendly guest house;

Higher end options

AfricaNomads – Run a popup coliving with starlink and a good community;
Peponi Hotel – Beachfront classic; confirm generator and in-room Wi-Fi strength;
Kijani Hotel – Green courtyards; quieter rooms set back from the seafront;
Banana House & Wellness Centre – Yoga, pool and free Wi-Fi;
Fatuma’s Tower – Calm and leafy; check room Wi-Fi if you take calls;

Getting There

Flying into Lamu/Manda (LAU)

Schedules do change and some routes are not all year round but here are the most common routes to Lamu by plane.

Nairobi JKIA Jambojet $80-$100 one-way;
Mombasa – Skyward Express $40-$80 one-way;
Malindi – Safarilink, Skyward Express $40 one-way;

Road options from the mainland

Your best bet by road would be with an organised tour company. It’s not advisable to travel by road north of Malindi.

Getting Around

There are no cars on Lamu Island, boats and on-foot.

Typical public boat fares:

LAU → Lamu Town (one-way): ~100–200 KES per person (daytime);
Lamu Town Shela: ~100–200 KES per person public boat; ~300–500 KES private by day, higher at night;

Eat & Drink

Local food to try

Swahili pilau, biryani, samaki wa kupaka, mahamri with chai, coconut beans, octopus salad;

Groceries, markets, and delivery

Lamu Market for morning produce. Island Grocers (Mahrus) in town and Al-Mabrook Shop in Shela cover staples;

Restaurants

Simple local favourites line the Shela seafront and town jetty, expect a laid back service and have cash or mPesa.

Peponi Hotel Restaurant (Shela) – Waterfront staple;
Moonrise (Lamu House Hotel, Town) – Swahili and international plates;
Whispers Coffee Shop (Town) – Breakfast, juices, light bites;
Kijani Rooftop (Shela) – Sunset views over the channel;

Simple local favourites line the Shela seafront and town jetty; expect slower service and cash-first habits.

Fitness & Wellness

Running: Low-tide runs along Shela Beach are excellent. Go early to avoid heat;
Yoga & spa: Banana House and a few guesthouses offer classes or massages;

Beaches & Water Conditions

Best beach stretches for swimming/quiet/work breaks

Shela Beach is the go-to sandy sweep for swims and thinking walks. Go mid-tide for best swimming;
Manda beaches are quieter. Bring water and sun protection;

Reef, tides, and basics for first-timers

Swim inside sheltered channels and heed currents. For reef snorkelling take a boat trip. Takwa and Manda Toto areas are popular.

Things To Do

Water sports (kitesurfing, diving/snorkelling, SUP)

Kitesurfing: Two wind seasons. Kaskazi (Dec–Apr) and Kusi (Jun–Sep).
Snorkelling: Manda Toto and Kinyika day trips, around $35 per person, lunch often included;

Nearby parks/day trips

Takwa Ruins (Manda) – Atmospheric 15th–16th-century Swahili site, ~30 minutes by boat;
Matondoni dhow yards – See traditional boat-building and sails;
Kiunga Marine National Reserve – Remote mangroves, islets, reefs, and seabirds;

Sunset/estuary/creek trips

Sunset dhows are a Lamu signature. Expect private hire rates in the $40 range depending on time and what’s included;

Nightlife & Community

Bars and nightlife

Low-key, it’s a predominantly muslim area. Most people gather at Peponi Bar or on rooftop restaurants for a sundowner. Very occasional parties at hotels.

Nomad groups & how to plug in

Join Digital Nomads Kenya on Facebook to find meetups and travel threads, and ask hotel managers for local WhatsApp groups.

Safety & Etiquette

Beach vendors & polite refusals

Expect friendly offers for boats or beadwork. A simple “Hapana asante, nitarudi baadaye” works. Confirm all boat prices before boarding and agree the return times

Dress norms, checkpoints, and common scams

Modest dress in town. Swimwear at beach/pool only. Expect security at jetties during busy periods. Avoid late solo walks on empty stretches. Many governments currently advise air arrival into LAU and caution against overland travel within Lamu County.

Health & Medical

Hospitals/clinics and pharmacies

There are no pharmacies on Lamu island and medical care is limited. There is a hospital who deal with common illnesses and injuries. You should consider medical evacuation cover.

King Fahd Lamu County Referral Hospital is the local goverment run hospital, with recent ICU upgrades;

Travel health basics

Coastal Kenya has malaria risk. Use repellent, cover up at dusk, and discuss prophylaxis with your clinician.

Entry & Stay Options

ETA/visa requirements overview

Kenya eTA is required for most travellers and must be obtained online before travel at the official portal;
Admission period is granted at the border, if you say you are staying for 10 weeks you will usually be given a three month visa on entry;

Extensions

Tourist stays are commonly extendable up to 5 months in total via an online service. Check current instructions before you plan long stays as they can change at the last minute.

Frequently Asked Questions about Lamu

Is Lamu safe for solo travellers?
Yes on the islands with normal precautions. Avoid isolated areas at night, and follow current government advisories regarding overland travel in the county.

Can I rely on 4G or fibre?
There is no fibre. 4G works. Many stays use generators and some use Starlink as a backup.

How do I get from the airport to my stay?
There is a jetty at LAU and take a public boat to Lamu Town (~200 KES) or a pre-arranged private boat to Shela. Prices rise after dark; confirm before boarding.

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